520 
35 
3y 1 



The Maude Russell System 
of Garment Cutting 



TEXT BOOK 

Illustrated 



Published by 
MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. 

Oklahoma City, Okla. 



(Copyright 1917, by Maude W. Russell) 
Oklahoma City, Okla. 



All Rilghts Reserved, Includiner the Right to Translate 
into Any and All Foreign Languages 



THE PUBLISHERS PRESS 
OKLAHOMA CITY.OKLA. 



INDEX 



Half-Tone of Mrs. Russell _..... 2 

Open Letter 3 

Preface 4 

Cut of Entire System 5 

Benefits of the Russell System 6 

Advantag-es over all other Meth- 
ods or Systems 7 

Description of Figure No. 1 8 

Description of Figure No. 2 9 

Description of Figure No. 3 10 

Description of Figures Nos. 4 & 5 11 
Description of Figures Nos. 6, 7 

8 & 9 12 

Description of Figures Nos. 10 & 

11 13 

Description of Figures Nos. 12 & 

13 : 14 

Taking Measurements 15 

How Measurements are Taken 

for Dress 16-17 

Measurement Blank and Cut of 

Figure 18 

Measurements of Coat or jacket 19 

Adjustment of the System 20-21 

Waists 21 

How to Make Plain Waist 21 

Illustrations 22 

How to Make Corset Covers... 23 

Brassiere 23 

French Lining 24 

Mannish Shirt Waist 24 

Drop Shoulder Waist 25 

Butterfly Waist 26-27 

Illustration of Pattern show- 
ing Raglan lines, Large 

Arm's eye, etc 27 

Collars 28 

Sailor Collar 29 

Middy Collar 29 

Round Collar 29 

Fancy Collar 29 

Collars Indicating Slight, Me- 
dium, and Extreme Roll 30 

Military Collar 30 

Collar and Vest 31 

Collar and Tie 31 

Sleeves 32 

Plain Two-Piece Sleeve 32 

Illustration of manner of lay- 
ing System on Material 32 

Natural Dart Sleeve ci^'i 



Bishop Sleeve 34 

Shirt Waist Sleeve • 34 

Leg o' Mutton Sleeve 35 

Cuffs 36 

Skirt s 37 - 38 

Directions for Cutting Two- 
Piece Skirts 39 

Illustration of Pattern 40 

Three-Piece Skirt 41 

Illustration of Pattern 42 

Four- Piece Skirt 43-44 

Illustration of Pattern 44 

Four-Piece Gathered Skirt 45 

Illustration of System on Ma- 
terial 46 

Illustration of Pattern 47 

Five-Piece Skirt 47-48 

Illustration of Pattern 49 

Seven-Gore Skirt 50 

Illustration of Pattern 51 

Fifteen-Gore Skirt 52-53 

Illustration of Pattern 53 

Circular Skirt 54-55 

Illustration of Pattern 55 

Illustration of Four-Piece Cir- 
cular Skirt on Striped Ma- 
terial 56 

Circular Plaited Skirt 57-58 

Illustration of Foundation for 

Plaited Skirt 58 

Circular Skirt with Ripple 

Flounces 59 - 60 

Illustration of Skirt av i t h 

Flounces 60 

Coats or Jackets 61 

Plain Semi-Fitting Coats .: 62 

Illustration of Pattern for 

Semi-Fitting Coat 63 

Military Coat 64 

Illustration of Pattern for 

Military Coat 65 

Box Coat - 66 

Illustration of Pattern for Box 

Coat 67 

Princess Slip 68 

Princess Slip Pattern 69 

Teddy Bears 70 

Illustration of Pattern for 
Teddy Bears 71 

Night Gown 72 



The Maude Russell System 
of Garment Cutting 



TEXT BOOK 

Illustrated 



Published by 

MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. 

Oklahoma City, Okla. 



Copyright 1917, by Maude W. Russell) 
Oklahoma City, Okla. 



All Rights Reserved, Including the Right to Translate 
into Any and All Foreign Languages 



TTs3,o 




THE INVENTOR 

MAUDE W. RUSSELL 



/ 
ICI.A455506 



FEB 10 1917 



/ 



RUSSBLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



An Open Letter to My Friends 

IN ISSUING this new Russell System Text Book, it is with the hope that 
. women everywhere will be enabled to overcome the many difficulties with 
which thev have heretofore been confronted in cuttino- and fitting- their own 
g-arments. 

The art of dressmaking- and tailoring embraces such a vast scope of knowl- 
edge that much of it is impracticable for use in the averag'e busy woman's life. 
For this reason my time and thought have been given to the invention and per- 
fecting of a system of cutting and fitting that is simple enough yet so practical 
that any woman can avail herself of its benefits and easily become her own 
designer and dressmaker. 

The work of making her own dresses, or garments for the other members 
of the familv, is a real pleasure to a woman when she is certain of good re- 
sults which can always be obtained with the Russell System and the knowledge 
of how to use it. A great advantage, too in ha\'ing a Russell System in the 
home is that the daughters, even at the age of ten or twelve years, can easily 
be taught to cut perfect fitting patterns and make their own garments. 

The instructions have been made so plain and the Russell System is so 
easil}^ adjusted to individual measurements that no woman need experience 
any trouble whatever in getting complete knowledge of the work from this 
book. 

By the use of this text book the woman in the country home can have the 
same advantages as her city sister and can equip herself to make not only her 
plain dresses and house gowns but she can also select and reproduce gar- 
ments having the same dash, style and individuality as the more costly tailored 
gowns. 

Should there be anything about the use of the System or any problem in 
dressmaking that you do not understand I shall be glad to receive a personal 
letter from you, stating your problem, and I will assist you in overcoming such 
difficulties or answer any question you may ask relative to the work. It is 
ni}^ desire to render vou all the assistance possible to make your work with the 
Russell System both a pleasure and a success. 

Believe me to be, 

Yours very truly, 

Maude W. Russell. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 



PREFACE 



EN THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established herself as a dressmaker 
and ladies' tailor and continued this line of work until 1910. During these 
years of experience she realized how essential it was to the success of her 
work to have a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods of 
dressmaking then in use. 

In 1910, she began to teach dressmaking and then realized more than 
ever the necessity of having some method of pattern cutting which all could 
readily understand. With the idea of solving this problem she continued her 
work and finally brought all of the knowledge and principles which she had 
acquired from her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the 
Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting. 

After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected this wonder- 
ful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she offered to the public believ- 
ing that its use would prove a great blessing not only to those who are com- 
pelled to earn their livelihood by sewing but to every woman w^ho desires to 
be well dressed at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money. 

The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical test ever 
made of it and we are pleased to say that the approval which it has received 
from the public more than justifies the faith of the inventor in the superiority 
of her System over any other method of pattern cutting. 

THE MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. 

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Feb. 1,1917. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Benefits of the Russell System 

TAILORIXCz AXD DRESSMAKING have become of such g-rave import- 
ance to the American woman, that there is no lono-er any doubt that they 
are the most elaborate and becomin.s^ly dressed women in the world. 

With the sudden chano-es of style from one season to another and the 
high cost of ready-to-wear orarments women everywhere have come to realize 
how essential it is to their education to have sufficient knowled.s^e of garment 
cutting and dress-makino- to enable them to make their own gowns as well as 
their plain house dresses. 

Those of limited means find it impossible to dress with the exquisite style 
displayed today, unless they are familiar with the advantages ofifered by the 
Russell Svstem. Those who employ others to do their dressmaking are always 
able to distinguish any mis-fit or bad Hues in the garment, but often the dress- 
maker as well as her patron is unable to remedy such defects, because they are 
usuallv due to imi)erfect patterns. 

]\Iaude W. Russell, the inventor of this New Method of l/arment Cutting, 
is a dress-maker and tailoress of great experience, and after years of operating- 
dress-making parlors and schools has given to the i)ul3lic the only perfect gar- 
ment cutting svstem ever invented. No time, trouble or expense has been 
spared by her in perfecting this System, which is without doubt superior in 
simplicity and accuracy to anything of its kind in use today. 

After having been thoroughly tested by many experts the Russell Sys- 
tem has not been found wanting in any particular and with the frequent 
change of stvles the System has Ijecome of indispensible value to even the most 
talented dress-makers. 

The invention consists of a series of templets or forms which may be ma- 
nipulated readilv bv any person whether or not they are skilled in the art of 
dress-making. ]{ach of the forms or templets is adjusted independently of 
the others, and the adjustment of any one part does not interfere with the ad- 
justment of anv other part. 

It is unnecessary for the operator to relv ui)on judgment or skih, as the 
operation of shaping the garment correctly to conform to the figure of the 
wearer is purelv a mechanical one. The only care required on the^part of the 
operator is in the taking of measurements and adjusting the System in ac- 
cordance witli instructions. After a little ])ractice this will become very easy 
for the operator. Remember that correct patterns can l,e cut onlv l)v cor- 
rect measurements. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Advantages Over All Other Methods or Systems 

1. Each and every part of this System may be adjusted independently of any 
other part. 

2. Regardless of size or form, there is positively no misfit at collar, shoul- 
der, arm's eye, chest, hip, bust, or waist. 

3. There is no part of this System that does not do its own work. Those 
using- the System do not have to rely upon their own judgment for any 
correct result, as the System makes all calculations when set to proper 
measurements. 

4. Each and every adjustment on the System complies exactly in measure- 
ment and form with the name of the part you are to adjust, written 
plainly on the System. 

5. To teachers as well as pupils it is the greatest time saver in use today, 
as there is not a screw moved or an adjustment made that changes or as- 
sists in any other adjustment. 

6. It is so simple and accurate that a person using the measurement blank 
as a guide should not make any mistakes after taking measurements cor- 
rectly. 

7. This is the only System known to the inventor that requires no drafting 
whatever. The perfect accuracy of this System and the fact that it allows 
for seams, saves time and material. 

8. There is nothing to get out of order even if constantly used, and no clamp 
or screw causes any strain on the material. 

9. It does not take a skilled dress- maker to use this System. Any one 
with the slightest experience in sewing can make a success using this 
method of cutting. 

10. Even children of ten years or more can be readily taught to use this 
System successfully. 

11. The Russell System is the only one in this country or any other by 
which you can cut every garment from the most exquisite gown to the 
simplest dresses and underwear without the aid of drafting. 

12. This Svstem conforms to all individual measurements, giving the length 
of the form up and down as well as around. It makes every line and 
curve of neck, chest, bust, waist, hip, and bottom of skirt comply with 
the form, giving those wnth irregular forms the same comfort and 
style as one who has a perfect form. 

13. This System does away with the old time work of drafting and study- 
ing necessary to make your own allowances. It contains the whole art 
of drafting within itself. Should you lay it aside for years its sirii- 
plicitv will always enable you to use it for any style garment that may be 
in voo"ue. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Description of Figures 

No detailed explanation of the use of the System is attempted here. 
Only a sufficient explanation is q-Iven to show the main purpose of the various 
parts, as illustrated by the fii^-ures shown herein. 



Figure No. i represents the ruler 
used for strai,8;htenin_o- long- seams. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 




Figure No. 2 shows first skirt section 
used in cuttino- front and back panels 
and narrow g'ores. Any desired length 
of skirt can be cut by adjustino- the 
hem g'auge to the length desired. 



10 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Figure No. 3 is used to cut any 
skirt from two piece to any de- 
sired number of ,^"ores. It is also 
used in cutting- yokes, draperies, 
tunics and flounces. The break in 
the hip line shows how the ad- 
justment can be made allowing' 
flare in full skirts. Leno-th of 
skirts is determined by adjusting- 
hem o-auge as in figure Xo. 2. 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



11 






Figure No. 4 represents the square which is used more than any other 
part of the System. With it we shape all the different style necks both in under 
and outer wear; also, back and front of w^aists at lower ed,8:e. It can be used 
to measure any size tuck or plait and gives any decided curve that may be 
necessary for a line of trimming'. 




Figure No. s shows the front 
of the waist. Tio'ht-fitting- waists 
or lining-s may be cut by taking 
out space between dart perfora- 
tions. 



12 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 





Figure No. 8 shows the coat or 
jacket collar. It adjusts to size de- 
sired and by using' perforations either 
round or square corners may be made. 



Figure No. 6 shows back of waist. 




Figure No. 7 sliows collar of waist 
and is adiustal)lc to any neck. 




Figure No. g shows the sleeve which 
can be adjusted for any o-arment. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



13 




Figure No. io shows the front of 
Coat System. As wih be seen it is 
perforated for either sing-le or double 
breast and three different sizes of 
lapels. Center front is one inch in 
from sino-le breast. 




Figure No. ii shows the front side 
bodv of coat or jacket. 



14 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 




Figure No. 12 sliows the under arm 
section of the back of coat svstem. 




Figure No. i :; sliows center back 
section for liack of coat. 



Jf throiii^h accident any part of the Svstem shonld l)e l)roken or lost, it 
may be replaced by enclosino; the damaj^^ed piece, or a descri])tion of it, with 
ten cents to the Maude Russell Co., Jopiin, Mo., and the i^iece will be re- 
placed. For screws with washers send five cents each. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 15 



Taking Measurements 



CORRECTNESS in measurement taking- is higiily important. This may seem 
strange but nothing is of more vakie in pattern cutting- than the knowledge 
of how to take measurements properly. Measurements are the foundation 
of the pattern, so you readily see if the measurements have been taken care- 
lessly or incorrectly the pattern will be ruined. 

It is essential for success in pattern cutting that a study be made of dif- 
ferent fig'ures before one can know just how measurements should be taken. 
For instance two fi.gures may have the same bust measure and be entirely 
unlike in appearance. One may have a prominent bust and narrow flat 
back, while the other may have larg-e shoulder blades and be broad and flat 
in the front. But patterns must be made to fit these respective forms. This 
can be done by careful study. Each figure has distinct lines and one of the 
reasons why our System is superior to any other is the fact that each indi- 
vidual fig-ure may be properly fitted by merely adjusting- a screw here and 
there to meet the demands of the fig-ure in question. 

Taking measurements depends also g-reatly on style. If the style of gar- 
ment worn is loose and full, measurements should be taken to correspond; 
while if severely tig'ht fitting- garments are the prevailing mode, measure- 
ments must be taken accordingly. In either case care should be taken that 
the finished garment will follow the line of fashion. 

Constant reference should be made to the forms in this book, which 
show the exact places on the figure where these measurements should be 
taken. It is well to memorize the list of measurements given, so that you 
may be independent of the measurement pads. Practice taking measure- 
ments until you are familiar with every detail. It is well to take the 
measurements. of as many different figures as possible, as this assists in your 
study of lines. It is unwise to give any heed to the seams in the garment 
worn by the person whose measure is being taken, as they may or may not 
be correctly placed. 

First place a tape line around the body at the waist line, allowing the 
person whose measurement is being taken to adjust the tape line to position, 
as in that case there is no guess work as to the location of the waist line. 
Whether or not the person whose measurements are being taken is longer 
in the front than in the back the tape should be made to dip slightly toward 
the front as this always insures a better figure. All waist measurements are 
taken to the lozuer edcre of this tape; skirt measurements are taken from the 
top edge of the tape placed around the waist. 

As the measurements are being taken, write them on the measurement 
pad in the order suggested. Set the adjustable parts of the System to the num- 
bers indicated on the pad. 

Persons who are taking measures should stand at the side or back of 
the one whose measurements are being taken. Never insert fingers under 
tape line while taking the measurements except at arms eye, where three 
fingers are placed under tape to insure proper size. 



16 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



It is unnecessary to make any allowance for seams, as the System al- 
lows % of an inch on all outside edg-es. This is the standard seam al- 
lowance and should a laro-er seam be desired it must l)e allowed for when 
cuttino- the pattern. This will be needed however only in those materials 
that are loosely woven or ravel easily. 



How Measurements Are Taken 

1. Neck at top is taken by placing i3.pe around top of neck comfortably. • 

2. Neck joinino- waist is taken at base of neck, l)rino-ino- tape well down in 
front, following line where waist should join collar. 

3. Heighth of collar, record both front and back measurements. 

4. Shoulder seam is taken from base of neck to length desired. Care 
must be taken to place tape high enough on neck to meet collar line. 
The length of the shoulder varies with the changing style. Always 
take into consideration the style of the garment to be made and the be- 
comingness of the particular style to the figure. 

V Chest width is taken across the chest, from arms eye to arms eye, 2 
inches down from shoulder point. This measurement should, in normal 
figures, be al)out 10 inches wider than shoulder length; for instance, 
if the shoulder line is 6 inches the chest width will probably be 16 inches. 
Should one be stooped in the shoulders and narrow in the chest, make 
the chest width as great as possil;)Ie to be becoming, as it will improve 
the figure. 

6. Front length is taken by placing tai)e measure at hollow at base of 
neck in front, ])eing careful to place it liigh enough to meet collar line. 
Allow the tape to extend down center front to bottom of tape placed 
around waist. 

7. Bust is taken by placing tape around fullest i^art of the bust in front, 
bring around under arm to center l^ack, allowing tape to slant upward 
2 inches at this point. Bust measure will be larger than usuallv used 
in ordering commercial patterns. Remember the surplus will be taken 
up as the Svstem allows for seams. 

8. Back width is taken the same as chest width and is a verv necessary 
measurement. In normal figures this measurement is usually slightly 
less than the chest width. If the chest width is 16 this measurement 
will proba1)ly be 15. If one stands erect or if one has verv i:)rominent 
1)ust lines it may vary more than that. Care should be taken that this 
nieasurement be wide enough to insure good lines in the garment to be 
made. Should one be stooped in the shoulders, the back width will be 
more than the chest width. Be sure that your measurements do not 
emphasize this abnormal condition. 

9. Back length is taken by placing tape on prominent bone at base of neck 
at back and allowing it to extend down center back to bottom of tape 
that has been placed about the waist. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 17 

10. Under arm is taken by placing- tape on center under arms eye extend- 
ing" it to bottom of tape placed about waist. This measurement is im- 
portant. 

11. For waist measure place tape around waist at exact waist line. 

12. Arms eve — Place tape around arm at laro-est part of arm, bring-ing- it 
up to where shoulder seam is to be. Be sure that this measurement is 
comfortable but not too large. Place three fingers under tape to insure 
ease. 

13. Arm around below elbow. Place tape around the arm at largest place 
])elow elbow. 

14. Wrist around. If taken for tight fitting sleeve tape should be placed 
around wrist over prominent wrist-bone. If for sleeve to be slipped 
over hand, measurement should be taken around knuckles. Butterfly 
sleeves should be made slightly larg-er at hand than other sleeves to 
g'ive ease in raising" the arm. 

15. Shoulder to elbows Place tape on arm's eve to meet back width meas- 
urement and bring- down to elbow ]:)oint. 

16. Elbow to wrist. Place tape on elbow point, allowing it to extend 
down to first crease below prominent wrist-bone. 

17. Hip length is taken from top of tape placed around the waist down to 
larg-est part of hip, which varies with dififerent fig'ures, and on some 
fig-ures may be only six inches down while on others it mav lie ten or 
twelve inches down from the waist. 

18. Hip around is taken around largest part of hip. Place tape around 
body comfortably and add three inches for ease in sitting. If hip 
should measure forty inches proper hip-around measurement for set- 
ting system will be forty-three niches. 

19. Front length. Place tape at top of tape-around-waist, allowing it to 
extend down center to floor. To set system decide upon the number 
of inches one wishes the finished garment to be from the floor and 
subtract this amount from the skirt length taken. Set the top of 
hem gauge at this number. This will give proper length of skirt. 

20. First skirt length over hip. Place tape at top of tape-line around-the- 
waist one-third of the way from center front to center back, or at 
first hip curve, and allow it to extend dowai to floor. 

21. Second skirt length over hip. Place tape at top of tape-around-waist 
two-thirds of the way around from center front to center back, or 
over large hip swxll, and allow it to extend dow^i to floor. 

Back leno-th is taken from top of tape-around-waist, down center back 
to floor. Should vou drop below waist line in taking this measure fit 
of skirt will be ruined. In case one is slightly stooped, it is well to 
allow one inch on this measurement as one ordinarilv stands more 
nearly erect while measurements are being taken. 



22. 



18 



RUSSBLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Measurement Blank 



Neck at Top 

Neck Joining Waist 

•Height of Collar. Front Back.. 

Shoulder Seam 

Chest 

Front Length 

Bust 

Back Width 

Back Length 

Under Arm 

Waist ; 

Arm's-eye 

Arm Around Below Elbow 

Wrist Around 

Shoulder to Elbow 

Elbow to Wrist. 

Hip Leno^th 

Hip Around 

Front Length of Skirt 

1st. Skirt Length over Hip 

2n(!. Skirt Length over Hip 

Back Length of Skirt 




Study the above figures carefully 
and take \our measurements on the 
lines above indicated. 



FOR Cr)ATS ADD 

Shoulder to Bust _ 

Bust to Waist 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING ■ 19 



Measurements for Coat or Jacket 

MEASUREMENTS for coat are taken snug-ly or exactly as the form is. No 
allowance should be made in any measure, as the coat system is regu- 
lated to allow all the surplus necessary. This is a semi-fitting pattern, and 
should one wish to make a tight-fitting garment the waist size must be set 
four spaces smaller. That is, if the waist measurement is twenty-eight inches 
and one wishes the coat to be tight-fitting the System should be set to twenty- 
four at the waist strap on each of the coat pieces. 

1. Neck measurement is taken by placing tape around base of neck. This measurement 
should be taken over collar. 

2. Shoulder length is taken by placing tape at neck, allowing it to extend straight on 
shoulder to arm's-eve. Care should be taken to place tape high enough at base of neck 
to meet collar line. 

3. Chest width is taken by placing tape from arm's-eye to opposite arm's-eye two inches 
down from shoulder point. 

4. Front length is taken from center front collar line to waist line. 

5. Bust is taken by placing tape around at fullest part of bust in front and allowing it to 
extend around body and raise two inches in back. 

6. Back width is taken by placing tape on prominent bone at base of neck and extending 
down center of back to waist line. 

7. Under arm is taken by placing tape on center arm's-eye and allowing it to extend to 
waist line. This measurement should be taken with arm hanging in natural position 
as there is danger of ruining fit of coat should the curve at waist be made too low. 

8. Arm's-eye is taken by placing tape around largest part of arm and bringing it up to 
shoulder seam. Insert three fingers under tape when taking this measure to insure ease. 

9. Waist measure is taken by placing tape around waist line. 

10. Hip length is taken directly over hip curve from waist line to largest part of hip. 
Length of coat may be taken in this way. 

11. Hip around is taken by placing tape around the largest part of hip. Nothing is added 
to this measure as all extra fulness is allowed on the System. 

12. Shoulder to bust is taken by placing tape half way between neck and shoulder point 
on shoulder line and bringing down to bust point. 

13. Bust to waist is taken by placing tape on bust point and bringing down to waist line. 

N. B. The last two measurements are very important, as a change of corset invariably 
changes bust line. Should these measurements be taken in an incorrect manner the 
fit of the coat will be spoiled. 

14. Sleeve measurements for coat should be taken the same as for dress, but the System 
should be set two spaces larger than for dress. This applies to all measurements for 
coat sleeves. This is done for the reason that the coat sleeve is worn over the dress 
sleeve. 

15. After measurements have been carefully taken and the System adjusted to conform 
to same, material can safely be cut, as all due allowance has been made for seams ; 
however, in extreme or decided style, we would suggest that a paper pattern be cut, 
in order to determine whether or not the style is becoming to the figure. 

N. B. Record your measurements in the order above on your measurement blank, being 
careful to follow the lines indicated on figures shown on page 18. 



20 RUSSELL S Y STEM OF GARMENT CUTTING _ 

Adjustment of the System 

DT IS WELL to first take the time to familiarize yourself with the manipula- 
tion of the System. In a short time this becomes as easy and convenient 
for the housewife as does the runnino^ of the sewinq- machine, or handling of 
culinary articles in o^eneral. This System is so simple that children of lo 
years or more learn the manipulation very c|uickly. Each measurement re- 
ferred to herein is printed plainly on the System. 

The System is adjusted by first loosenino- all of the set screws and then 
movino- up the adjustable portions to the numliers correspondiujs^ to the list 
of measurements you have taken and recorded on the measurement pad. For 
instance, if the waist Svstem is to be adjusted, take the front and loosen all 
screws, then adjust the neck, shoulder, arm's-eye, chest, bust, leng-th under 
arm. and waist measures in the order named. 

Back of waist is set in same manner. Carefully notice that -there are 
two places on the back for the adjustment of bust size, also two places for 
the adjustment of waist size. Should you desire a tiolit-fittino^ o-arment, ad- 
just at waist line to re.^-ular waist measure. If fullness is desired at waist 
line as in shirtwaists and blouses of dififerent styles, spread at waist line to 
the full extent of System. This will allow the desired fullness. 

Sleeve is ^set first at arm's-eye, then lensth from shoulder to elbow, arm 
around, leno-th from elbow to wrist and wrist around. 

The waist and skirt are set with the fio'ure indicatin,^ the measurement 
on the outside of the adjustable portion. On the coat the reverse is true 
and the Svstem is set with the fio-ure indicatino- the measurement on the in- 
side of the adjustable portion of same. Do not fail to rememl3er this when 
adjustino;" the System. 

The Skirt System should be set first at waist size, hip leno-th, hip around 
leno-th of skirt and width desired in the order named. The Skirt Rule is 
used for straio-htenino- up lono- seams in kimnnas, lono- o-owns, etc. 

The narrow skirt section is used for cuttino- panels and all narrow 
o'ores. This piece of the Skirt System is used also in making- the circular 
flounce patterns. The wide skirt section of the System is used for cutting 
any wide gore as for two, three or four-piece skirts. This piece is arranged 
so that should skirts, which have a decided flare from the knee again become 
popular, they can be properly cut by this Svstem, as you will notice the out- 
side portion of the System is hinged for that i^urpose. In fact, any style of 
skirt, wliethcr narrow or wide, may be made without difficulty. 

.1 before cutting any patterns study carefully all of the accompanying 
illustrations, thus eliminating any difficultv that mio-Jit otherwise l)e met. 

The greatest recommendation of this Svstem is its simplicity. As it is 
only an adjustable pattern, anyone who can use patterns can use it, and it 
fits the familv. It may ])e used for the simplest house gown or the most 
elaborate ball or dinner gown. Everything from school froclcs to trousseaux 
may l)e fashioned with the System. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



21 



It is well to practice in the use of this System by cutting all patterns 
in the order arrano-ed in this instruction book, as in this way one is led 
step by step throug-h the entire System and each lesson learned is a stepping 
stone for the next. 

It is possible to purchase plain wrapping paper at small cost; this is to 
be used in the practice of cutting patterns. The larger scraps and patterns 
may be used again for cutting other small patterns. 

Do not fail to study suggestions and illustrations carefully before pro- 
ceeding to cut the pattern. Illustrations are given herein showing the posi- 
tion of the System as laid on paper or material, also the finished pattern. To 
assure success we suggest that the paper patterns be pinned up and fitted 
before the garment is cut, at least until one has acquired an excellent knowl- 
edge of measurement taking, as this is the foundation of good patterns. 

Remember that in pattern and garment cutting, as in all other things, 
proficiency is acquired by constant and thorough practice. 



Plain Waists 

To make a plain waist, loosen all screws in the front and back of waist 
System and adjust to the proper measurements, following carefully the meas- 
urements recorded on the measurement pad. 

After adjustment has been completed lay front of waist System with the 
center front line on the straight edge of the material, mark around, carefully 
dotting the length in front and marking the proper length under arm. 

Remove System and shape lower edge of waist by j^lacing square on mark 
indicating length of under arm, allowing it to reach dot indicating length of 
front. For this purpose always use the curved edge of square and mark ac- 
cordingly. 




9? 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



To cut back of plain waist: Adjust back section of waist System to 
desired measurements, spreading- at waist line for fullness. Lay center back 
on straig-ht fold of material ; mark around neck, down shoulder, around arm's- 
eye, down under arm and across bottom. Cut on these lines. 




Should a longer line 
be necessary directly over 
bust curve, move square 
back toward under arm. 
This is always essential 
when one has a pro- 
nounced bust. 





U5e of ^oaare. 



If .s^arment is to have hem in front fold over material to indicate width 
of hem and lay the Svstem with the center front line meeting- center line of 
hem, or half way over hem. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



23 



Corset Covers 

To make corset cover first cut plain waist pattern. Cut out yoke line 
to any desired shape — round, V-neck, square, etc. Cut off one inch of out- 
side shoulder edg-e, both front and back, to prevent straps from slipping 
down over the shoulder. Make the straps two inches wide, more or less, as 
desired. 




Fancy corset covers 
are made from this 
plain draft. Cut 3^oke 
to any desired shape 
and trim in any 
manner you wish. 

Study illustration. 



B 



rassiere 



In order to make a brassiere, 
first make a plain waist pattern, 
being- careful to indicate dart 
lines. For persons with large 
busts and slender waists it is 
-necessarv to cut oft" front dart as 
well as side darts. This gives 
a curved fitted line down front. 
Remember that all seam allow- 
ance has been made, cut exactly 
on lines. 

The dart to be taken out in 
the back depends on the point 
of waist adjustment in width 
and extends six or eight inches 
up center back. 

Take one inch off the shoul- 
der as for corset co\er, and 
shape yoke as desired. If there should be too much fullness at waist line 
take the amount off of the under arm of front only. (See illustration.) 




24 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 




French Lining 

Set System for plain 
waist, mark round Sys- 
tem, mark dart perfora- 
tions in front and mark 
dart in center back. Re- 
move System. S li a p e 
lower edge of waist as 
indicated, using- square. 

Use square to make 
slightly curved line from 
center of the shoulder 
line to top of middle 
dart. Take out double 
the amount of this dart 
at the lower edge. Cut 
off front dart and leave 
the third dart as the 
amount of this dart was taken out with the second dart. 

Tn the back, mark dart for center back. Place a mark two and one-half 
inches over from this dart line at the lower edge. Draw slightly curved line 
from the center of the shoulder line to the mark at the bottom, using square. 

Alwavs use the square to make the^e lines, as it gives the proper curve for 
a well-fitting pattern. Study illustration^ carefully. Follow lines suggested. 

This lining is used for all tight-fitting waists where lining is necessary, 
and is also used for foundation linings. Mav 1)e used as the foundation for 
fitted brassieres. 

Cut off' front dart if necessary. Cut on lines indicated in illustration. Al- 
wavs allow for seams where pattern has been cut. 

Mannish Shirt Waist 

To cut mannish shirt waist 
adjust System to measurements 
indicated on measurement pad. 
Mark out plain waist pattern. 
Measure one incli longer on 
shoulder line and down one inch 
from arm's-eye on under-arm 
Hue. vSlia]x^ arm's-eye with 
s(|uare. 

In ail waists or l)louses where 
fullness is desired at waist line 
remember to spread back of sys- 
tem lo the fullest extent at 
waist. 

The shoulder and under arm 

of the middv blouse are made 

in the same wav as shirt waist. 

edge is to be determined bv indi- 




The length anc 
vidual taste. 



1 fullness around lowjr 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 



25 



Drop Shoulder Waist 



First, make plain waist pattern. 
Lap pattern for shoulder seams 
and measure 2V2 inches down from 
shoulder seam on front of pattern. 
This forms drop yoke. Cut on 
this line. If fullness is desired in 
the front of blouse allow from two 
to four inches to be jo'athered in at 
yoke line. Care should be taken 
in the adjustment of this fullness 
so that it may fall over fullest part 
of bust. Gathers should be ar- 
rano-ed between marking's one inch 
from neck line and 1V2 inches 
from arm's-eye. 

If low neck is preferred meas- 
ure down front the number of 
inches desired and shape neck with 
square. Study illustration. 





26 



RUSSELL S Y STEM OF G A R M ENT CUTTING 



Butterfly Waists 



Adjust System to correspond with resi^Tilar blouse measfirements, ex- 
cepting that it should be set one size lono-er at under-arm measurement. 
This is to o-ive ease when arm is raised. Spread System at waist line in 
back to allow as much fullness as possible, as butterfiv w^aists require more 
fullness than others. 

Lay System with center back on fold of material if waist it to have front 
closing-; if back closing is desired lay system with center fi-ont on fold of 
material. 

System should be placed with shoulders lapping three-eights of an inch 
at neck line and spread three inches at arm's-eye point. Mark around Sys- 
tem, mark front, back and under arm length. Lay square on front as indi- 
cated in illustration, squaring it with line under arm and corner where un- 
der-arm line and arm's-eye meet. Mark out to number six on curved side 
of square. Do the same w^ith the back, laying on square and marking out 
to number six as before. This is for short sleeve. 

IV/iy OF l/iy/A/G 3y3T£/^ O/V /^AiT£/?/AL 
FO/i A^^BUrrE/^FlY iVF)/ST 




To m.ake long sleeve: First get length by measuring from neck to shoul- 
der point, then to elbow point, next, from ell>ow to hand. Thus, if shoulder 
is six, elbow to shoulder twelve, elbow to wrist ten and one-half, the entire 
measure from nek will be twenty-eight and one-half inches. This point indi- 
cates sleeve length. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



27 



Place square on lines already drawn, both back and front, as illustrated, 
and mark out to proper sleeve length. 

The surplus fullness at the hand may be either o-athered into cuff, left 
open as kimona sleeve, or taken out in a dart in the followincr manner: 
Measure from back line of sleeve over on lower edge of sleeve three and 
one-half inches; from this point measure on toward the front as many inches 
as required to leave proper wrist-around measurement, the width between 
these points will be the proper amount to take out in the dart. This -dart 
should run out iVt inches below elbow point and both lines of this dart must 
be of the same leng-th. Remember that butterfly sleeves should measure one 
inch larger at hand than other sleeves. This ^ives ease in raising- the arm 
and prevents tearing. 

Sleeve may be made by shaping at sides, eliminating- dart. 

Raglan sleeves are also made by this draft; following any one of dotted 
lines indicated on draft, being careful that lines meet exactly under arm. 

Large arm's-eye can be made by tracing from any given point under arm 
to any desired width on shoulder. Care must ahvays be taken that these lines 
meet under arm. 




28 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Coll 



ars 



OLLARS of any style may be cut by this System. For stock or hio-h col- 
lars use the adjustable collar system. 

To cut any flat collar use the waist system; be sure the System is ad- 
justed to the correct neck measure of the one who is to wear the collar. 

Lay center back on fold of material and lay front System on with shoul- 
der line meetins: shoulder line of back. Mark around neck and down front 
to point as low as you wish finished neck to be. Mark shoulder point as a 
guide for shaping- collar. Remove System and with square shape outside edge 
in any desired manner; shape neck with square, from shoulder point, at collar 
line to point indicated down front. 



^ Shou/der po/nt 




fo onc^ cJe- 
sired po/'nt 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Illustrations of Coll 



ars 



29 





30 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 




If it is desired that collar 
roll in back follow dotted lines 
indicated in illnstration. 



Military collar and vest, 
roll collar and vest and collar 
and lie in one are cut with the 
System laid on the material as 
for butter-Hy waist; la|)i)ing- 
shonlders three-eig-hths of an 
incli at neck and sjireadino- three 
inches at arm's-eve. Center back 
shonld be on fold of material. 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



31 



Mark around neck and remove System. vSquare down front with straight 
side of neck. Measure down center back five inches; from this point measure 
across one-half neck measure. Draw Hue from the point indicatino- one-half 
neck measure down parallel with squared neck line. See illustration. 




Notice lines formino: collar and vest, also collar and tie. 




32 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 



SI 



eeves 



DjlJST the sleeve system to measurements indicated on the measurement 
pad. makin.o- adjustments in the foHowin,"- order : Arm's-eye, shoul- 
der to elbow, both inside and outside as indicated bv letterino- on System, 
from elbow to wrist, both on inside and outside, arm around and wrist 
around. 

Sleeves have always more fullness than arm's-eye; this should be ar- 
rano-ed evenlv to .s^'ive ease to the fit of the sleeve. 

Sleeve is sewed in o-arment with front seam of sleeve one and one-half 
inches forward from under-arm seam. 

The following- directions are for i)lain sleeves, of different styles. Fancy 
sleeves of any type may be made from anv one of these plain drafts. 

Plain Two Piece Sleeve 



After sleeve S^^stem has been ad- 
justed to proper measurement lay the 
System on material with points at 
top and bottom on the straii^ht line 
of the material. Mark around Sys- 
tem. This makes upper sleeve por- 
tion. Turn system over, still keep- 
ino- points on straio-ht lines of ma- 
terial, mark inside, except at lower 
edo-e of sleeve, where it is necessary 
to mark outside to o-ive proper leno-th. 



TO CUT TWO P/ECE SLEEVi; 





Remove System ; measure up to 
ell)ow point, on back seam of under 
sleeve section and mark two inches 
above and two below. In makino- 
sleeve distrilnite wliatever fullness is 
tound in ui)i)er sleeve section in the 
si)ace ])etween these markino-s. This 
allows fullness for comfort in bend- 
in-^- arm at elbow. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



33 



Natural Dart Sleeves 



After the sleeve system has been 
adjusted to ,the proper measurements 
lay system with front points on straight 
line of material. A/Tark around as be- 
fore. Turn system over, allowing' a 
small lap at arm's-eye, but only meet- 
ing line at elbow point. Mark inside 
except at lower edge where length must 
be made. 



ALSO BJJJiOP SL£XV£ 

/ndicotes u/ai^ of hc/infj 
s(j3tem on material 





Measure down one and one- 
half inches from elbow point. 
vShape dart from this point to 
lower edge of each sleeve section 
with square, as indicated in illus- 
tration. Cut on these lines. 



34 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Bishop Sleeve 



Proceed as for natural dart sleeve. 
Instead of cutting- out space between 
upper and under sleeve sections for 
dart leave in and shape lower edg^e of 
sleeve with roundino- elbow part of 
sleeve system, as shown in illustration. 




Shirt Waist Sleeves 




Lay system on. 
following- directions for 
b i s h o p sleeve. Use 
square to straighten 
side seams from elbow 
curve to lower edge of 
sleeve; follow lines in- 
dicated in illustration. 
Measure over three 
a n d one-half inches 
from l)ack line of sleeve 
at lower edge and 
measure u p f o u r 
inches from this point 
for placket. 

Shape top as illus- 
trated. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



35 



Leg o' Mutton Sleeve 

l£:C O' Mt/TTOJV SLEEVE 




To cut leo--o'-mutton sleeve adjust 
system to regailar measurements and 
lay on with front points on strai^'ht 
line of material. Mark around. To 
make under portion turn system over, 
lapping- the width of seam from hand 
to elbow. Mark inside except at hand. 
Shape top of sleeve as indicated in il- 
lustration. 




Illustration No. 27 shows finished pattern for leg-o'-mutton sleeve. As 
much fullness as is desired can be given at the upper part of the sleeve. 



yi 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Cuff 




Cuffs may be cut from 
any plain two-piece draft and 
shaped as desired. They may 
have either one or two seams; 
may be plain or pointed, in 
flare or open style. This is 
done by reproducing from 
l)lain draft. 




To maho caff 
u^ifh onlc^ one 
3 eam - sGom to 
be of under arm 





RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 37 



Skirts 



Ta)Y CAREFUL EXAMINATION of the skirt sections of this System you 
^ will find that adjustment can be made at waist line, hip line, hip leno-th, 
skirt leno'th and skirt w^idth. 

Waist line adjustment can be set to one-half, one-fourth, one-fifth, one- 
seventh, etc., of actual waist measure, dependino-, of course, upon the number 
of pieces desired in the skirt. This also controls the hip line adjustment. The 
distance from the waist line to the laro^est part of hip controls the hip leng-th. 

Length of skirt is determined by placing- top of hem gauge (piece at 
lower part of skirt system) at number that indicates proper length of skirt. 
Mark at top and bottom of hem gauge ; this provides for a three inch hem 
and does away entirely with the old tiresome way of standing while skirt 
length is being adjusted. If adjustment has been properly made and lines 
followed correctly your skirt will hang evenlv if hem is turned on line indi- 
cated by upper edge of hem gauge. It is important that care be taken to see 
that the adjustment for the length is correct in all particulars. 

\Mdth of skirts depends upon the prevailing style and the choice of the 
individual. It is possible to make any desired adjustment in this regard. 

Skirts of any number of pieces may be cut from the system from one 
piece circular skirt to skirts having twentv-one gores. The Russell method of 
cutting skirts is superior to any other, for several reasons. It alwavs insures 
a skirt that hangs evenlv and with a perfect ripple, as there are no straight 
edges, except in the front and sometimes in the back. There are no sagging 
seams, as no seam edge is ever cut on an extreme bias, except in circular 
skirts. Commercial and standard patterns have always featured skirts with 
gores of varying width. With the Russell System the gores are all cut of 
equal size (except the front) and give beauty and symmetry to the figure. 

Not only the plain gored skirts l)ut any fancy skirt or overdrape, tunic, 
flounce or in fact anything in the nature of skirts can be cut by this sys- 
tem. 

Our plaited circular skirts have no bias lines to sag, every plait is on 
the straight of the material so that not onlv when new, but after the skirts 
have been worn, washed, cleaned and pressed, they still preserve that symme- 
try of line that appeals to every woman of good taste and discriminating 
judgment. 

As has been called to your attention elsewhere in this book, skirts of 
any style mav be cut bv this system, be thev wide or narrow. You will no- 
tice also bv examination of the wide skirt section that a clamp has been placed 
in the outside edge to arrange for cutting skirts which have a decided flare 
from the knee. So you see, no matter about the changing styles, no mat- 
ter what dame fashion may rule, we can still say, to paraphrase a little, 
"Modes may come and modes may go, but the Russell System goes on for- 
ever." 



38 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



111 niarkino: around System be sure to mark at both top and bottom of 
both hip g'au.s^e and hem g-auge. 

S'houkl one care to have hip yoke or trimming at hip hne it is always con- 
venient and saves time to have hip length indicated. 

The top of hem gauge indicates actual length of skirt. The mark at the 
bottom gives the three inch hem to finish garment. 

There are no straight edges in the Russell System. In cutting gores, 
exce])ting front gores, for skirts up to and including five gores, lay System 
with lower front point on straight edge and swing waist point back four 
inches from edge. 

In cutting skirts having six to nine pieces, inclusive, lay System with 
lower front point on straight edge of material and swing System back at 
waist point two and one-half inches. 

In cutting skirts having ten or more pieces lay System on the material 
so that the center of each gore is on the straight line of the material. This 
gives excellent lines to the skirts and insures a perfect ripple over hip as well 
as in the back, prevents sagging seams and gives a general air of style to the 
garment that can be obtained in no other way. 

Refer constantlv to the illustrations that accompany each lesson. In 
this way you will avoid any mistake or miscalculation. 

Remember that good patterns depend upon the correct adjustment of the 
System, and that correct adjustment may be obtained only by means of per- 
fect measurement taking. 

In cutting skirts careful attention should be given to the adjustment of 
the System as to length. 

The average woman's skirt measurements are somewhat longer in the 
back and over the hips than in front. However, occasionally we find a fig- 
ure that requires the skirt to have greater length in front. Particularly is this 
true of figures having prominent abdomens, or of those who stand in a 
stooped manner. 

Be sure that when System is adjusted for cutting the various gores that 
correct and necessary adjustment is made in length, to correspond with the 
different skirt length measurements as recorded; front, first skirt length over 
hip; second skirt length over hip, back length. Thus it will be seen that for 
the different gores care must be taken that the length measurements must 
correspond on the edges that are to come together. 

Yokes for skirts mav be made from the two piece, three piece, or four 
piece model and made to conform to any desired shape; pointed, round, etc. 
Also, circular yokes mav be made from circular skirt draft. 



RU^^RLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



39 



r^^ PIECE sfci/er 



Two Piece Skirts 

To cut two piece skirt set System to one-fourth waist around, hip around 
and width at lower ed.o-e. Each piece is cut on fold of material' Be careful 
to have skirt len.o;th adjusted correctly. Study illustrations that accompany 
all sug-g-estions for cutting all patterns and you will experience no diffi- 
culty in o-ettino- patterns correct. 

The measurements for 
the skirt used in illustration 
were as follows: Waist, 28; 
hip around, 42; hip leng-th, 
10; width around lower edge, 
90 inches ; length in front, 37 ; 
first skirt length over hip. 38; 
second skirt length over hipj 
38; length in back, 38; there- 
fore, adjustment was made as 
follows : To one-fourth meas- 
urements around, which is: 
Waist, 7; hip around, loi^; 
hip length, 10; length in front, 
7,7 ; length over hip, 38 ; length 
in back, 38; and Vidth at 
lower edge, 22 V^. 

To cut pattern, 1 a y 
straight edge of System on 
fold of paper or material. For 
back piece lay straight edge of 
System on straight fold of 
material. Leave twelve inch 
placket at left side seam. 

Should it be impossible 
to spread the System to full 
width desired at lower edge 
without causing break in the 
line formed by System, it is 
w el 1 to get width and 
straighten line bv using skirt 
rule as illustrated. If fullness 
is to hang from hips lay rule 
from hip to lower edge. 
vShould one desire the fullness 
to fall from waist line, lay 
rule from waist line to lower 
edge. Be sure to mark along 
both sides of hem gauge, the 
upper line being for turn of 
hem. 




40 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Illustration of Two Piece Skirt 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



41 



T/f/?££ P/£C£ SfC/RT-mONT CLOJ/NG C/NI?£P PIAIT 




Three Piece Skirts 



Set System as for two piece skirt. Three piece skirts have either one 
piece in front and two pieces in the back or two pieces in the front and one 
in the back. 

If skirt is to close in the front, closing- will probably be made under plait 
or slot seam. In either case, allowance must be made by folding^ over ma- 



42 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



terial the width of plait or seam allowance desired. Lay System with cen- 
ter front overlappino- half of plait width or to edg-e of seam. 

If skirt is to have back closing-, front should be cut by laying- System 
with center front on fold of material. To cut back, instead of laying on 
fold of g-oods, place System wath lower front corner on straigfht line of material, 
moving- back at waist line four inches from straig-ht line. This forms the 
seam line over hip, and making it slightlv bias and renders back seam much 
less bias, insuring a skirt that hangs perfectlv with an evenly distributed 
ripple. 

Opening- for placket should 1)e twelve inches long in all skirts. 



f 




V 


k 


^ 




^H 


■ ^ 










^H <s 


;.^ 


^^^^^k 


^^^^^^^m 


< 




It 




/^^^^^^H 


^^^K / 


8 

-k 




^H ^ 


• 


^^^^1 


^^m 


1 




^1 ^ 
^1 ^ 


^ 


^^^^^^H 


^^^m 






^H 


1 


^^^^^^^^^^^^ 


^^^^^m 


^ 






5^ 


^^^^^^1 


^^m 


^ 








^^^^H 


^V 


I) 




1 


<3j 


J% 


^ 






1 




^^^^^^^H 


^^^^^ ^(^^ 








T/il^EE-P/ECE 


S/f//dT 





RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



43 



^(Pl^^ PIECE S/fmT" PANEL FBOAfT AND MCH 




Four Piece Panel Skirt 

This skirt has panel in front and back and one .s^ore on each side. To 
cut panel set narrow skirt section to one-half the panel width desired. Make 
the back panel slightly wider than the front. Panel width depends upon the 
prevailino- mode. Taking for example: Waist measure, 28; hip, 40; would 
suggest a front panel set to 3V2 at waist line, 4V2 at hip and 5V2 at lower 
edge. The panel would be just twice this size, as panels are always cut on a 
fold of material. For back panel would suggest setting system at 4 at waist 
line, 5 at hip line and 7 at lower edge. 



44 



RUSSEl.L SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Add : Waist 

3I/2 + 
4 



Hip Lower edge. 

4I/2+ 5^/^2+ 



qV2 



12V2 This o-ives entire width of one-half 



7V2 

of both panels. 

Subtract this amount from one-half the entire waist and hip and lower 
edge as: 

Waist Hip Lower edge. 

14— 20— 45— 

7I/2 qV2 I2I/2 



C)V-i 10V2 32V2 This is the exact size to which the Sys- 

tem should l)e set at each of the three places designated, to cut the side gores. 
Use wide skirt section for gores. 



Illustration of Four Piece Skirt, With Panel Front and Back 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OP C A RMHNT CUTTING 45 



Four Piece Gathered Skirt 

To cut four piece g-athered skirt add twenty inches to waist measure, or 
less accordino- to fullness desired. Divide this number by four, as there are 
four pieces in this skirt. It is desirable to have more fullness in back and 
sides than in front, therefore subtract two inches from the front .^'ore and 
add the same amount to the back o-ore. This will make the side g"ores two 
inches wider than the front ,^ore and the back or-ore two inches wider than 
the side g^ores. 

Width of skirt around bottom is ,^overned by personal taste and prevail- 
ing- style and may be anywhere from three to six yards. In soft materials 
more fullness can be used than in g'oods of heavier wei,2:ht. 

Front o-ore is made eio-ht inches wider at the bottom than at the top. Sub- 
tract bottom width of front ,s;'ore from the entire width around, dividing the 
balance by three. Take one inch from each side gore and add to the back 
gore, making the back gore three inches wider than the side gores at the 
bottom. 

Adjust narrow skirt section according to measurements for front gore, 
width at top, width at bottom and length desired; the top of hem gauge to 
be placed at numbers indicating length the finished skirt is to be. 

Lay the System with straight front edge on straight lengthwise fold of 
material. Mark across top, down side and across bottom, both at upner and 
lower edge of. hem gauge. Cut on lower edge, upper hem gauge line being 
for turn of hem. 

Use wide skirt section for cutting side and back gores. Adjust top to 
measurement for top width of side gore, adjust width at bottom, adjust 
length according to measurements for skirt length, length on front edge of 
this section to be same as length adjustment at side edge or front gore. The 
other length adjustment to be according to length measurement over hip. 
Both side gores are cut by this. 

Lay Svstem on with lower front corner on straight edge of material and 
drop upper front corner of System back four inches from the edge. This 
distributes ripples evenly. Mark all around and along upper and lower 
edge of hem gauge and hip gauge as on front gore. 

For back gore, adjust the wide skirt section at the top and bottom to the 
width gore is to be. Adjust the back length on the straight side of the Sys- 
tem, as this gore is cut on the fold. Adjust length at the side (skirt 
length over hip) to same measurement as length over hip on side gore 
where the back and side gores are joined. 

Lay System with the straight edge on a lengthwise fold of the material. 
Mark across the top, down the side' and along the upper and lower edge of 
hem gauge, as before. If trimming is desired around the hip mark on each 
side of the hip gauge. 

This skirt is to be gathered at the top into a band of the exact waist 
measurement, allowing for lap. Placket is to be made twelve inches long 
and preferably at the first seam at the left of the front but may be made else- 
where if desired. 



46 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Manner of laying System on to cut Four Piece Gathered Skirt 



rOl//^ P/SCS CAT/fER£D SJT/RT 



Cenfer ftont - Cat on fo /d 




/o/uo^oiu Jo p,oJ uo _ ^ooq ^a^aoo 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



47 



Illustration of Four Piece Gathered Skirt 




Five Piece Skirt 



The five piece skirt has panel down front with two "'ores on each side. 
First, decide on width of panel. Adjust narrow skirt section to one-half 
width of panel (these adjustments are made at the top, hip around — at hip 
len^s:th — and at bottom). Adjust the length, the top edo^e of hem .s^auge to 
be placed at numbers indicating- length of skirt desired. Lay front edge of 
System straight on fold of material. Mark across top, down the side and along- 
lower and upper edges of hem gauge, this mark representing- line on which 
hem is to be turned. If trimming is desired at hip line mark on each side of 
hip g-aug-e. 

To find the width to which each of the remaining- four pieces is to be 
cut, subtract the width of panel at waist, hip and bottom from the waist 
measure, hip around measure and width around at bottom, diwdrng- the re- 
mainder by four ; this will .give correct width of each gore. 

(For instance: If waist measure is 28 inches, hip 42 inches and skirt 
around bottom' 108 inches and panel has been cut 6 inches at top, 8 inches 
at hip line and 10 inches at bottom you would subtract 6 from 2^, 8 from 



48 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



42 and 10 from 108; this would leave 22, 34 and ()8. Each of these num- 
bers divided by four — number of o^ores desired — eciuals 5^/2, 8^/2 and 24 V2. 
which would be width of o-ores at top, hip and bottom, respectively.) 

To cut the two side o-ores and the two back o-ores adjust wide skirt sec- 
tion to numbers indicatin.s: width of o:ores. Adjust lenoth as was done on 
narrow skirt section. Lay lower front corner of svstem on strai.8;ht edg-e of 
material. Drop top front corner of System back four inches from straight 
edo-e of material. Mark all around, across bottom and alono^ top ed.s^e of hem 
o-au^-e as instructed for panel. (See illustration.) 



METHOD Of LAYJA/G ^VJ'TSM OA^ MA7£J?JJIL 

•^inches 





RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



49 



Illustration of Five Piece Skirt with Panel Front 




50 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Seven Gore Skirt 



For seven o-ore skirt divide the entire waist around, hip around and 
lower ed,^-e width bv seven to g-et the average width of o-ores. As, waist 
28, hip 42, width of skirt QO in., divided by 7 wiU .s:ive 4 at waist, 6 at hip 
and 13 at lower edo:e or width at bottom of each g-ore. 

/V!ETHOP orLAY/NG JYJTEM ^U MATfl^JAi 
TO Ct7T J'£V£N CORE SKJJ^T 



-2yz inches 




Use narrow skirt section to cut front <^ore. Set to one-half the size g-ore 
should be, as this piece is to be cut on fold. Lay System on material with 
center front of Svstem on fold of material, mark round, mark each side of 
hip gauge and hem oauo-e. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



51 



To cut other oores set the wide skirt section to indicated measure- 
ments. Lay System on material with lower front corner on strai,^-ht edo^e of 
material, moving- back at waist corner two and one-half inches. 

Mark all around, mark both sides of hip .g'au.g-e and hem g'au,g-e. 

Be sure leni^th is adjusted correctly on each of the several g'ores. All 
of these o-ores will be the same width. Should skirt be long-er in back than 
in front adjustment must be made to cover the difference. 

Adjust System to measurements and, after having- cut panel, cut re- 
maining g-ores by laying System on material as for five gore skirt, excepting" 
that, as sugg-ested above, System is moved back from straight edge at waist 
point two and one-half inches. This applies to each gore. 

Placket should be twelve inches long-, opening to be made where desired. 

Seam allowance must be made for all skirts having" six or more pieces. 



Illustration of Seven Piece Skirt with Panel Front 




52 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



METtfOP OFIAYINC SYSTEM OU MATER/Al 
OF FJFTEEN COPE SKJRT 





Fifteen Gore Skirt 

To cut a skirt havino^ fifteen g:ores divide the waist measure, hip meas- 
ure and width around bottom by fifteen, which q-jves proper width of q-ores. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



53 



Remember that in all skirts of six or more ^ores seam allowance must 
be made, usuall}^ three-eig'hths of an inch. 

To make front ,8;ore; as this gore is cut on fold, adjust narrow skirt sec- 
tion at waist, hip and width around bottom to one-half width of gore plus 
seam allowance. Adjust length to measurement. 

Lay System with its front edge on straight fold of material; mark across 
top, down side and across bottom, at both upper and lower edge of hem and 
hip gauges. Cut on lower line, the upper being line on which hem is to be 
turned. 

For the other gores, fourteen in number, adjust narrow skirt sec- 
tion to full width of gores, plus seam allowance. Be sure length is adjusted 
correctly. Lay the System with center on straight line of material. This 
distributes ripple evenly, producing a skirt which hangs perfectly. Mark all 
around and across bottom, at upper and lower edge of hem and hip gauges 
as for front gore. 

All side gores in this skirt are of even width, at waist, hip around and 
lower edge. No different adjustment is made in any particular with the ex- 
ception of the length, in case skirt is longer in hip and back length than in 
front, or the reverse. Adjustment in length should be made for each pair of 
gores so that the skirt will be of even length at the lower edge. This applies 
to all skirts. 

Each piece should be plainlv marked so there will be no confusion in 
putting skirt together. In this skirt,, adjustment must be made to allow for 
seams, as must be done in all -skirts of six or more gores. 



Illustration of gores for fifteen gore skirt. Note marking of gore. 




54 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



MET NOD OF LAYJNC SYSTEM OU MATBRJAL 

FOR cIr^cuLAI^ sk/rts 




Circular skirts are cut by using both skirt sections, pkicing- the narrow 
one in front on fold if no seam is to be made in the front, or on the straig-ht 
ed|n;-e of the material should a front closing- be desired. Adjust Systems to one- 
balf of waist measure, one- half of hip measure and one-half of width around 
at bottom. Adjust the leno-th. 



This skirl mav be one-piece with seam up center front, as indicated, or 
up center back. It may also be two piece, with seam up back and front, or 
two piece with seam over each hip. It may be four piece with seam up front. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OP GARMENT CUTTING 55 



back and over each hip. The latter is very pretty in striped material. Illus- 
tration, page 56. ' 

This skirt is used as a foundation for circular plaited skirt. The skirt il- 
lustrated is cut to the followino- measurements: Waist 28, hip 42, width lOcS, 
or three yards around at lower edg"e, length 37 front and 38 back. You will 
note that the System is adjusted at 14 waist, hip 21, bottom 54, and length 
37 front and 38 back. 




Make to any desired width. If plait is desired down front allow accord- 
ing to width of plait wanted. 



56 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



MEWOD OF lAY/UG SYSTEM Of/ STJ^JP£D MATE/e/AL 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



57 



Circular Plaited Skirt 

Make plain circular skirt foundation. Reproduce panel allowins^ for 
two inches to be turned under and one-half inch for seams. 

Reproduce yoke by tracing- yoke line, allowino- one-half inch at lower 
edge of yoke for seam. 

Measure the distance from the panel line around hips and divide this 
number by the size of plaits wanted. 

Measure the distance from the panel line to the back of the skirt at lower 
ed.ge, and divide this number by the number of plaits at yoke ; this determines 
the width of plait at the bottom of skirt. 




58 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Measure the size of each ])hiit at the toj) and l)ottom and make hne 
from plait mark at top to plait mark at bottom. (See illustration.) 

After panel and yoke have been re])roduced and plaits lined up take this 
foundation and lay on a new straig-ht ed,s^e of material. Trace panel line 
two and one-half inches from edoe. Next trace plait line. Raise plain draft 
and with square measure four inches out from l)ottom of i)lait line (this ,^ives 
a two-inch turn which is enou.^-h for o-eneral i)uri)oses). With the skirt rule 
make a line from this point straig^ht on paper to yoke line. Fold on traced 
line over to meet straig-ht line. Allow surplus to o'o under plait at top. Re- 
peat till finished. 

These plaits are all on the strai,e;-ht line of the material and never pull out 
of place or sag". 





2/n\ 

! 1 

1 Cb 

' .^ 
, "^ 

' •< 

1 -^ 

1 ^ 
1 ^ 

. ^ 

1 ^-/>7. 


1 c 
i -^ 

1 ^ 

1 ^ 

1 Cb 

1 ^ 

1 ^ 

1 4/n. 


2/>', 

1 -^ in . 


1 

', -4 //7. 


lndi'cof(25 njanner 
of lotting plaits for 
circular ploiled 
sHi'rf. Fo/d dot- 
ted line oiy'er to 
Stroighr line. 
Continoe until 
dGsired number 
of ploits '5 laid. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 

Circular Skirt with Ripple Flounces 



59 




This skirt may be made with panel in front or with panel and yoke in 
one. When skirt is cut to make panel, allowance must be made when cuttino^ 
material, for seams or plait. 

Make a plain circular draft for foundation. Reproduce front panel and 
yoke to hip depth; allow for seam or turn under for plait. 



60 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Measure len,q-th of skirt from hip yoke to bottom and divide the result by 
the number of flounces desired. This o-ives width of flounces. If skirt meas- 
urements are lono-er in back than in front, this width must be measured also. 

If one flounce is to \rv over the other, allowance must bp made in width 
for this lap. Flounces may !2:raduate in width if that style is preferred. 

For ripples, use small skirt section; set to two and one-half inches at 
waist line, the number at which to set the Svstem at lower edg^e of flounce 
width depends upon the amount of ripple desired. Lay front edge of System 
on straig-ht edo'e of material and mark at top and bottom and strai.s^ht along^ 
inner edq-e as indicated in illustration; move System so that front ed^^e 
meets straig-ht line and proceed as before; reoeat until pattern is finished. 

Width of flounce depends upon number of flounces desired and upon 
length of skirt. (See illustration.) 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 61 



Coats or Jackets 



EASUREMENTS for coats are taken snugly or exactly as the form is, as 
the Coat Svstem is regulated to allow for all surplus necessary. 

This is a semi-fitting System and four spaces of measurement are allowed 
on each of the four pieces of the System at the waist line to make it so. 
Should you wish a tight-fitting- coat, instead of setting the waist strap to your 
actual waist size, adjust it to four sizes smaller, but make no other change 
in the adjustment of the System. 

For instance, if the waist measure is 28 inches. System should be set 
to 24 for a tig-ht fit, but adjust all other portions of the System to actual 
measurements. 

You will notice that the front of the System has indicated, double 
breast, single breast, and center front, which is one inch back from single 
breast. 

Care must be exercised to g'et a correct line from shoulder to bust and 
from bust to waist. Always measure with tape line to ascertain just 
w'here bust point should come. If the curve or rounded line at this point 
should be made too hig-h or too low, the fit of the g^arment is ruined. Change 
of corsets affects this line. 

If bust measure is so large as to interfere with a good line in the ad- 
justment of the front, set this part of the System to a good line reg-ardless 
• of bust size and add to side' front any number of spaces that may have been 
omitted from front. This always insures a correct fit, unless in extremely 
large or not properly proportioned figures. 

Those sections of the coat cut from the first or front coat section and 
the piece cut by the center back section of the System must always carry 
g-ood lines. Should there be any alteration in the adjustment of the System 
it must be made on the under-arm sections, both back and front. 

Always keep waist strap slightly lowered from center back to center 
front. Back should be cut on fold of material. Center of under-arm pieces 
should follow straig^ht line of material and the front sections should be cut 
with center front on straig'ht edge of material. 

The Coat System is just as simple in every way as the waist or skirt 
system and will fit any figure regardless of corset worn. Should one be 
very slender in the waist size with large hips, any amount of fullness may be 
given skirt of coat by adjusting at 'hip size. 

Darts should be put in lining- in lapel to g'ive the coat the well rounded 
lines over biist. This should be pressed carefully and covered with a facmg 
cut without dart. 



62 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 

Plain Semi-Fitting Coat 

Adjust System to proper measurements. Lay front System with cen- 
ter front on straii^-ht line of material and mark around. 

Lav l:)ack with center line on fold of material. Lay underarm section 
with center on strai,^-ht line of material. To determine the lenoth desired 
measure from center waist strap down to any leno-th below waist. Study il- 
lustration. 



POflTlO// OF SYSTEM TO Cl/T SBNU-mUNG 

COAT pattt:i^jv 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



63 




64 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Military Coat 

Adjust System as for semi-fittin2: coat and lay front and side front 
together, lapping from screw at shoulder to screw at hip. Shape under-arm 
followino- line of Svstem. ]\Iake any desired length. 




J/fOWmC METflOP OFIAYJUG SYSTEM O// 





Errata: Lay System on material with center front (one inch in from 
single breast perforations) on straight edge of material as indicated in illus- 
tration for Princess Slip (page 68). 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 



65 




66 



RUSSELL SYSTEM O E GARMENT CUTTING 



Box Coats 

Adjust System as for semi-fitting- co:its. Lay System with center front on 
straight edge of material. Lay side front lapping on front from shoulder screw 
to hi]) screw. 

Lay hack pieces in same way. 

Sha])e under-arm with s(|uare or skirt rule, making anv desired length or 
width around lower edg'e. 

To avoid using dart in arnrs-eye to shape over larg-e husts, raise System 
one inch under arm. This swing's System over, allowing- more fullness over 
hust and retaining the orig'inal arm's-eye. 



M^r/iOJ? Of CUTTJNG 3 OX COA7 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



67 




68 



KUSSELL SYSTEM O f C . I K .1/ /: A' T c ' U T T I X G 



Princess Slip 

Adjust Coat System for a ti.^ht-fittino- o-amient. Lav on material ac- 
coi-clino- to directions -iven for semi-fittino- coats. To finish skirt part deter- 
mine proper leno-th and width around lower ed-e of skirt, and shape up seams 
with skirt rule. i i • 



METHOD OF lAyJNG SYSTEM O/^ MAT£P/ A L 

roj? pj?jr/cBss suf^ 




RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



69 




70 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Teddy Bears 



METHOD OF CUTTING TEDPY 3 BARS 





Use coat section of System, lappinj^ front and back as for 
box coats. Measure down to length of skirt wished, making two 
inches lonj^er in back than in front. Shape under arm, foUow- 
ing System hue. 

Shape neck in any maimer desired. 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 7\ 



72 



RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 



Butterfly Night Gown 



First fold g-oods lengthwise, then fold over accordiiio- to length of g-ar- 
nient desired. \\'ith square, measure across one-fourth of bust measure plus 
two and one-half inches. Measure down for arm's eye one-half the actual 
measurement '^lus one inch. Round out sleeve with square. Shai:)e neck in 
anv manner wished and measure length of gown with skirt rule. 




This may l^e rei)roduced with Raglan sleeve, square, round or V-shaned 



nee 



k. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 161 n 



